Kythira
Technically an Ionian island, but with Cycladic-style architecture, and at the point where the Ionian and Aegean seas meet, just across from Monemvasia and the Pelopponese. Popular with roots-seeking returnee Aussie Greeks, and discerning Athenians. Other external tourism is mainly Italian, so a common sight is a car being driven like a bat out of hell, which comes to a shrieking stop and goes into a confused huddle over maps underneath a signpost pointing in an indeterminate direction. Roads are deserted and despite (or because) of this, people drive pretty fast, so play it safe.
In Kapsali, try to track down Captain Spiros, who has a little boat and takes you to see the beautiful caves near there. Book ahead to ensure you get a place. Tel 697 402 2079
There is an old fortress in the Chora that is lovely – preferably visited in the morning, otherwise it can get too hot - and quite a few beautiful monasteries too, generally, on the island. But your guidebooks will tell you that!
There is a cinema in the main Chora, which ChI has not been to, but has heard it is nice.
Everything in Kythira is really dispersed - there are deserted villages and really small ones with very few people – it involves a lot of driving over good but fairly deserted roads. There are bits where you might not come across any other cars for a while, so always carry water, and keep some emergency telephone numbers to hand, just in case.
Helpful car or scooter rental from Active tel +30 6974 667 083
The waterfall at Fonissa (just at the end of Milopotamos) is really worth a visit – but it can dry up in high summer. Its tiny but magical…and right next to the start of the path there is a really cute little shop owned by an Argentinian. He makes interesting jewels and his wife makes really nice jersey tops, hairbands etc. They also have fantastic fans in every colour. After walking and maybe even swimming under the waterfall, restore yourself at Platanos (again!).
Where to Stay
Stay at the Raikos Hotel, near Kapsali Harbour bay - the only quality hotel on the island. Very pleasant, well-decorated, unpretentious, and a pleasant pool. Not cheap – even off season – but nice. And the management are charming.
Where to Eat
Kythira is known for having some of the best food in Greece. The baked goodies at the breakfast table of the Raikos (lovingly prepared daily by Kyria “Roy”) are divine. And there are some wonderful foodie treats to be had all over the island.
Sotiris taverna in Avlemonas village tel 33722, 33922 is THE place to eat ‘astakomakaronada’ : lobster spaghetti… and some of the best ChI has ever eaten, with its hint of saffron and a note of chilli. It’s their specialty and it really is delicious. You generally should order in advance if you don’t want to wait for ages… selecting your own lobster from the tank in the kitchen. The very pretty, too, with a tiny cove covered in bougainvillea and rocks, and a nice simple old-style kafeneion a bit further down the road from Sotiris (to the left with the sea at your back).
Varkoula taverna at the most northern point on the island is another must-visit. This taverna is on a balcony literally hanging over the sea – magical at night. Mid-week it can be quiet and on weekends they have a few people playing bouzouki music in a corner. The fish is spectacular as is the food generally. Its quite remote but worth the trip.
Platanos Kafeneio in the mediaeval village of Milopotamos, near the waterfall, has a great poikilia (range of assorted mezzes) and good baklava. Really worth just hanging out for an hour or two in this traditional kafeneio in the square, especially on a Sunday evening around 6 or 7, when you will hear the magical sounds of the chanting from the adjacent Orthodox church. Mind the wasps though!
In Kapsali bay, Ydragogeio restaurant is the fanciest of the lot but not pretentious and very very good - lots of Athenians eat there (always a good recommendation) Very good fish, and a nice view of Kapsali harbour. At the immediate right as you come into the harbour. It’s very near the Raikos hotel (down a very steep climb up and back, which is hot in mid summer, and pretty dark, via an unlit paved path flanked by pine trees. Do-able but slightly hairy. Rent a car and/or take a flashlight).
There is another cute little ouzeri/taverna, Koukos, on the road between the main town Chora, and Kapsali (literally - ON the road, on a corner on the right, which makes it easy to miss). It has a great sea-urchin salad and is a nice place to linger over a plate of something and a glass or three of something else…
Beaches
Image courtesy of kythiravillas.com
The most beautiful beach is definitely Kaladi – the road there (near Milopotamos) is a little bumpy but ok if you are careful. It has turquoise water, a pebbly beach, and is probably the most popular one but really worth it. There are quite a few reasonably built but somewhat uneven steps to get down…you should take an umbrella if you need shade and an icebox because there is absolutely nothing else around there for food or drink. Go early if you want to avoid the crowds, then drive on to Milopotamos for coffee and goodies under the trees at Platanos kafeneion.
Another pretty beach is Melidoni, which has umbrellas, loungers, and even a little “canteen” for juices, water, packets of chips etc. It also has those water bicycles that are really good exercise and a fun way of seeing the cove round the corner. This beach is different to others in that it looks like a lake - it is surrounded by green which also makes the water green. There tends to be more children and young families than on Kaladi.