Where to Stay
The hotel Glaronissia on the edge of picturesque Pollonia fishing village offers a pleasant and helpful stay, ( http://www.hotelglaronisia.gr .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address) tel 22870 41468/41128-9. Just opposite it, is a really great taverna with excellent mezzes and very good xima (local wine – order by the kg). It gets very crowded, and in August they don’t take bookings, so be prepared to wait – even if you go late.

There is a lovely bar/coffee shop in the main (tiny) square of Plaka in the Hora, where the local buses stop, and turn around with only inches to spare – just at the foot of the beautiful Kastro (worth the climb).
Augoustos café bar in Pollonia has good cappuccinos (very necessary after a night with far too much Xima!) 22870 41427

Where to Hang Out
The stunning volcanic rock outcrops and beaches of Milos are best seen (and accessed) from the sea.
Brau kat Travel (tel +30 22870 2300 .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address)) can arrange day-long boat trips around the island on sleek catamarans, taking between 8-16 people – but book well in advance as places are scarce in high-season months, though sometimes cancellations do come up. Or just wander along the harbour in Adamas and look for boat captains offering cruises.

Local bus services are good – clean, air conditioned, cheap, and they keep to time. Have spare change handy for your fare (pay the driver on leaving the bus)

Milos photos by Viki Zafiriou Zarifi