Paxos

Paxos, accessible only by sea, with hydrofoils several times a day from Corfu, and a sea plane, is a little gem. The sparkling waters of the Ionian sea are particularly lovely here, and it is an unspoilt island.

The season starts a little later here than in some of the more southerly islands, so Paxos though lovely in late April, can be chilly, so if you go then, take properly warm clothes, but also sunscreen for fiercely sunny moments. It’s a great time of year to go walking on the island, though.

In August, do anything you can to stay off the roads, as it is jumping with Italians, so rent a small boat and tool up and down the coast by sea. (The atmosphere is great then, however!) Rent a boat from the charming Captain Nikos, to be found at Mastoras Market tel +30 26620 30059 and mobile +30 6973 985811 email .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address) and drop in at deserted little bays, have private swims, and then stop off in one of the villages along the coast for a coffee.

If you do want to rent a car, Babis Kangas of Alfa Hire is friendly, helpful, and like most Paxiots, speaks very good English. .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address)  tel +30 26620 32505; mobile +30 6977 867 313.

The nicest village is probably Loggos.

But Lakka and Gaios also both have their charms. Gaios in particular has a buzzy feel to it (in a good way), even off season.

Places to Eat

The food is great on Paxos, if somewhat expensive – the whole island tends to be an expensive one, somehow….

In Loggos, eat nouvelle cuisine a la Greque at Vassilis Taverna, where the delightful Lily will explain the day’s menus to you in flawless English. Or try any of the numerous little restaurants along the harbour, which tend to vary in quality from year to year. Take in a drink at one of the little café/bars to the right of the harbour, with a table at the back looking out over the entrance to the bay, and scope out sea urchins at the foot of the sea boundary wall in the crystal-clear water.

Or people-watch on the main drag. Decent coffee (not obvious on Greek islands) and indeed, tea, can be found in the little café turning left off the main drag after Vassilis. It also has an internet connection.

In Gaios, the best truly Greek food and good, eclectic world music in the background, can be found at Apaghio taverna, at the end of the harbour just before the green boy statue (corroded bronze). Moor your boat just in front but beware you don’t try and park it in the space reserved for rentals, or you will be politely chewed out! Tel +30 26620 32521.

 

Places to Stay

The nicest places to stay are in the villas and apartments run by Travel a la Carte an be found at www.travelalacarte.co.uk