Spetses
Another pedestrian-only island, but beware pickup trucks and mopeds driven by small children and drunks.
Getting There
An alternative route to reach Spetses from the mainland, instead of taking a katamaran or a dolphin from Piraeus is to drive to Kosta and hop on a little taxi boat (a mere 2 euros in summer 2010) which will zip you across in no time at all to either the Palio Limani (if you are staying in Pitioussa) or the Dapia.
Image courtesy of sailingissues.com
Chilling Out
People-watching is a national pastime in Greece, and the best place to do it on Spetses is in the Dapia, at the old Kafeneion, which remains the firm favourite for the morning coffee, the post-beach coffee, and to hang out in while waiting for the boat to leave.
After the beach, head to the Dapia again for an ice cream at Roussos (ChI loves the pistachio) certainly hits the spot.
Or if you have a really sweet tooth, seek out the warm loukoumades (fried dough balls in syrup) that appear in the afternoons, from one of the sea front road cafes.
At night, a chilled-out, low key bar for after-dinner drinks (try a Tsippuro – like grappa) with friendly barmen and a pleasant clientele is located just off the Paraleia (sea road) as you head from the Dapia to the Palio Limani, on the narrow street next to Lambras motorbike rental shop.
Dining
The best places to eat on Spetses are found in the Palio Limani (old port), and the fish at Tarsanas is as good as ever. Spaghetti alle vongole at Il Padrino comes a close second, however.
If you are staying in the Dapia, jump into a horse-drawn carriage (flat rate fee for anywhere in the island) to go across to Pitioussa, but at peak times there can be a run on them so be willing to wait.
After dinner, walk around the harbour to Guzel, the Pitioussa nightclub of the same name as the one in Athens, and dance till dawn.
Shopping
Top up your beachwear collection at the shop next to On the Dock in the Dapia, which has the most extensive collection of Eres swimwear for women that ChI has ever seen. (The story goes that in a recent Greek-Lebanese social event on the island, the Lebanese contingent bought up virtually the entire shop).
Where to Stay
The hotel Posidonia near the Dapia or a private villa rental are still the best options, though there are a few nice guest houses here and there. Other options are the Oikonomou Hotel, which has a small swimming pool (no children allowed). Tel: +30 22980 73 400; or the Hotel Orloff, which is chaotic and noisy in August but can be fun.
But since all the best restaurants are in the Palio Limani (near Pitioussa), it can make sense to be based there, depending on the time of year you visit – Pitioussa empties at a stroke at the end of August, as nearly all the Greek home owners head home at the end of the month.
• The Orloff Resort in the Old Harbour
• Someone’s yacht
• Someone’s room to rent (they will find you, as you come off the boat)
Image courtesy of travel.webshots.com
Beaches
Sandy beaches, secluded bays. As with much in Greek islands, always best to explore by boat, if that’s an option – and here, you can, even if you don’t have one of your own, because there are taxi boats.
• Aghia Marina, about 2km south of Dapia (the main village) is sandy, has
watersports, tavernas etc and can be reached by taxi boat, on foot or by
bus. It can get crowded, due to the convenience of the location.
• Zogeria with its pine forest setting
• Aghia Paraskevi, with its long bay, sand and pebbled beach – and
watersports…hmm.
• Vrellos (Paradise Beach) from where you can walk to the highest point of the
island, Profitis Ilias.
• Agioi Anargiroi has a large sand and pebbled “developed” beach with deep
water. Good for water sports. Good tavernas a bit in land.
• Xilokeriza, one of the least-developed beaches on the island, reachable by
taxi boat. Sand, pebbles and a small taverna.
• Ligoneri – the colourful, with its multi-coloured pebbles, crystal blue waters
and pale sand.
Where to Hang Out
Rich (literally and figuratively) nightlife, and pretty varied – from bars to bouzouki, discos to nightclubs (60s style), in Dapia, the Old Harbour, Aghia Marina. The Spetsa bar – a few minutes from Dapia (the main port), has “clean” drinks, great atmosphere and fantastic music (relaxing 60’s, 70’s and 80’s stuff). Kostas, the owner, speaks perfect English and will take good care of you. It gets really full of upscale Athenians during August but is still the best place for the first drink of the night. For Greek music, Fox or Figaro (after midnight).
Frequented by Athenians, many of whom have houses on the island. Very “social”, very upmarket, very “busy”.
Where to Eat
• Tarsanas restaurant on Palio Limani is a must, for really excellent, high
quality dining
• Check out the taverna on the bend just before the old harbour coming from
Dapia, near the “des-res” area of Pitiousa, for amazing loukanika and chips,
and xima (local wine) aged in rosemary casks by the owner (who has a
tendency to dance on tables but then who doesn’t?) Gets very crowded, so
book ahead. Small children, drunken eaters, and cats abound. Fun.
• Movenpick Café (yes really) for good coffee – located where all the boats
come in.
• Padrino’s – in the Old Harbour - one of the fancier restaurants on the island.
A favourite (much like Tarsanas) of the wealthy Athenians weekending on the
island, particularly the older generation. Great pizza and Italian food – but
best to casually book a table as there aren’t that many.
For glimpses of Spetses, take a look at….
http://www.greeka.com/saronic/spetses/spetses-pictures.htm