Insider Edge: Insider Escapes

Boyacá

If you have two or more days to spare when in Bogotá and want to explore the countryside, take a car out to Boyacá. Colombia is divided into 32 departments and Boyacá is one that borders with Cundinamárca, home to Bogotá. The altitude is slightly higher than the capital’s and the region is mountainous; this is after all where athletes train all throughout the year for the Tour de France cycling race!

There is lots to see and it’s the perfect road-trip getaway – just don’t expect to go clubbing, this is Colombia in its rural glory, not a trendy hotspot where people lounge around pools!

The weather here is colder than in Bogotá, with sunnier, warm days from December through to February. Temperatures drop dramatically in the evening and the look is generally country classic so take good boots, wool jumpers and a Barbour ideally. The sun is dangerously strong, particularly around the warmer months and it can sneak up on you so always wear sunscreen even if you don´t feel the need.

Traffic out of the capital on Fridays can be bad, so make sure to get an early start – while Boyacá on the whole is considered safe, you should not be ‘travelling’ at night.

The landscape on the outskirts of Bogotá is quite beautiful and there are even some historical sites on the way, shortly after entering Boyacá you will pass by the famous ´Pantano de Vargas´or Vargas Swamp where the first battle for Colombia´s independence took place. You cannot miss the imposing monument. Crossing through Tunja (about 2.5hrs from Bogotá), the capital of the department, is another issue altogether. Although the city has a charming colonial centre, it has rapidly expanded and has become scarily ugly; do not be put off! Keep driving!

There are many hotels in the area, popular with families for weekend stays. Although most will claim to be super-luxurious, don´t expect Lake Como 5 star accomodations. They are definitely clean and well serviced though. One of the most beautiful ones is the Hotel Puntalarga in Puntalarga, at the 7th km on the road between Duitama and Nobsa. The rates are very reasonable and the staff always incredibly friendly and helpful. The hotel has 30 simple rooms, most with great views of the valley below. The colonial style building is situated in the middle of beautiful flower gardens and if you like any of the furniture (gorgeous massif wooden beds!) you can pop in to the workshop on-site, order whatever you want and have it shipped to you! In the restaurant of the hotel, try the local specialty, grilled trout with garlic sauce or plain.

Puntalarga is a very convenient spot from which to travel and explore the area. Places you absolutely must visit – all nearby:

• Ráquira Brightly-coloured small village with a charming square and one main street bustling with shops. Known for its pottery, explore the side-streets and check out the factories. On the main street, look for pure virgin wool blankets and ´ruanas´ - the typical Colombian over-garment - imagine a Mexican poncho without an opening in the front. (Surprisingly chic in ecrú!) Generally a place to shop and browse, at the end of the main road have a juice or popsicle before you leave.

• Tenza Slightly larger, famous for its hand-woven baskets that come in all shapes and sizes; again be prepared for shopping! Their large colourful baskets with lids are stylish and ideal for use as storage containers in children´s playrooms.

• Villa de Leyva The most touristy of all, this picture-perfect village is the more sophisticated of the lot with nice cafés and restaurants so plan to have a lunch-break here.

• Sotaquirá Nothing touristy here. Located o top of a stunning valley, Sotaquirá is an original Boyacá village that has been well-preserved. Not much to do but the drive there is a treat and the square is quite beautiful.

Food wise, the area is not known for its cuisine as locals mainly eat meat and rice or potatoes. In order to spice things up however, they make a red chilli sauce called ají – be careful, it can be very hot! Otherwise, you should also try:
• Almojabanas Delicious when warm, these chewy buns are very addictive. Try them with a hot chocolate served in a local café/mini-market.
• Longanisa Something like black pudding; quite tasty but really not recommended for sensitive stomachs. Make sure the place you eat it looks clean!
• Pan de Yúca Boomerang-shaped bread buns made from yúca (also know as cassava). They are delicious for breakfast or with your coffee. Buy lots for the trip back!
• Refajo Not very exciting but if you want to live it up like a local, and because the really local drinks (rice-based masáto and corn-based chicha) are not such a good idea for an unaccustomed stomach, try refajo. Half beer, half ´colombiana´, the national fizzy drink, goes well with barbecued meat!